Look up in the shiny new Ginza Six shopping complex: you’ll see Yayoi Kusama’s iconic spotted pumpkins hanging surreally from the ceiling. It’s one of a number of gallery-level artworks scattered throughout the swishy complex.
Tap into Japan’s near-spiritual reverence for seasonal fruits by hunting down a nashi pear – either in department store basement food halls or expertly mixed into an autumnal cocktail at cult bar Gen Yamamoto.
A very modern cup of tea
For a contemporary take on the traditional tea ceremony, head to Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience in Aoyama. It’s a small, serene space with an expanse of clean-lined copper and glass.
Hire a sleek frame from Tokyobike in old-school Yanaka – before exploring old wooden houses, historical temples and small design shops. Best of all? You can cycle on the pavement.
More a science lab or gallery than a traditional shop, the monochrome Anrealage flagship in Aoyama showcases cutting-edge fashion that fuses technology and craftsmanship. Think mechanised hemlines and colour-changing fabrics.
While navigating the salaryman crowds, try to avoid being injured by aruki-sumaho – aka ‘smartphone walking’ city-dwellers, whose eyes are permanently glued to their phones. You’ll even see warning posters in train stations.