The sleepy beachside district of El Cabanyal, which lies behind Valencia’s main beach, is rich in history. It was once a fishing village, as you can tell from the low-rise terraced buildings tiled in blue, white or green – a nod to the sea-related jobs once held by their owners. A new generation has been moving in recently and bringing a vibrancy to the gridded neighbourhood streets. Here’s where to soak up the best of El Cabanyal.
Book to get a seat at one of the neighbourhood’s oldest spots. Casa Montaña is beautifully atmospheric, and the tapas are excellent.
La Fábrica del Hielo
This large building has gone from waterfront ice factory to shabby-chic hipster spot with a bar, snacks and regular live music.
La Otra Parte
Go on a Wednesday evening, when a wooden board is laid down in front of the restaurant and riotously loud flamenco rings out along the street as harried servers weave around the limbs of dancers and patrons alike.
Come to Casa Carmela for extraordinarily good paella cooked over wood fires. Call ahead to book a spot if you don’t want to be left waiting – and remember, paella is only ever eaten at lunch, not dinner.
Bodega La Pascuala
Bodega La Pascuala is a Cabanyal favourite that serves up what can only be described as ridiculously large sandwiches – about the size of a forearm.
Cabanyal Intim festival
The 10th edition of the Cabanyal arts festival takes place on 7-10 and 13-17 May 2020. Expect performing arts, music, cabaret and more.
A one-time townhouse in the middle of El Cabanyal has been renovated into the beautiful Barracart Apartments. It’s an excellent spot from which to explore the area – 10 minutes to the beach and 15 by bus to the middle of town. The owners also run Casa Montaña, which means it’s easy to land a table for one of the best bites in town.
Cathay Pacific flies to Madrid, which has rail connections to Valencia